I'll be adding to this page in the future; upcoming projects include the budget-minded Marui Thompson 1928 conversion, and AK Beta with a side-folding stock, and a Bison-2 9mm SMG made from a Marui AK...

This kit started out as an Estes Air Rocket that shot hand-pumped rockets straight up-- but where's the fun in that?  Chop the rocket tube and stick it in a styrene-core ABS housing, modify the system to allow the rockets to be shot horizontally... now we're cooking with evil.  I'm working on an attachment that will allow me to fire 6mm BB's as well as the two foam-head rockets I have.

P.S.-- I have scored one kill with this thing-- a headshot from ten feet away in a game of Capture the Flag.  Apparently the other guy didn't know I had more than one rocket...

A customer here in Hawaii had the drum magazine from a cheap Korean Tommy Gun springer, and wanted to know if I could get it to work in his Marui M1-A1 Thompson, as part of a Thompson 1928-A1 conversion... so I went about converting the magazine to feed through a standard Thompson AEG mag, then patched it up and painted it.  For the foregrip, he managed to score a walnut one off of E-Bay for the real-steel, but it only required minor fitting for the AEG.  The Cutts compensator was cut off of the Korean springer, then modified to fit over the AEG's muzzle... not 100% accurate, but close (and cheap!) enough to work for now...

BTW, the WWII Thompson, known as the M1-A1, could not take the (in)famous drum magazines that the 1928 model could-- which didn't matter anyways because the drums would malfunction if not kept clean, something that you couldn't guarantee in the field...

As you can see, the base gun is an SR16, from Tokyo Marui.  This job was done for an airsofter here in Hawaii who basically wanted something similar to my M4-A1 Shorty but with more range and battery capacity.  The barrel length was kept the same and the full-stock retained, but a custom free-float handguard was built.  The new handguard, stock, and grip were coated with the Harsh Environment hard rubber coating for scratch resistance and sound absorbtion, giving the gun a great new look and feel.  The gun itself chrono's in at 400/.20's, with better accuracy achieved with .25's and .30's.  The result is a front-line gun perfect for those who need something light enough to keep them fast without sacraficing accuracy, power, or battery life.  The custom handguard is lighter & more stable than the original; and, since it is a free-floater, movement from your non-shooting arm won't loosen the outer barrel.  Basically, barrel wobble has been eliminated without the use of expensive chamber blocks or metal bodies, and the inner barrel is now able to provide the utmost accuracy capable for its size & type.  Total cost?  Under $ 80 and less than a week in the shop...

Although you may not notice it at first, this AK has a side-folding stock... what's weird is that it originally started out as an A-47 S, converted into a Spetsnaz, then back into a full-sized AK with a full-sized stock added.  The stocks were coated with the Harsh Environment application, and a Krinkov flash hider mounted to the front to help conceal the SG1 inner barrel.  This gun is still "work-in-progress", with internal upgrades and some external finishing still to come...

I missed my old USP, so when Terrance from Excess Power offered me a great deal on one with two spare magazines, I had to buy it.  Only one problem: this was the non-hop-up model.  I had a spare hop-up barrel, sleeve, and chamber from the HGHU USP, so I installed those parts.  Performance wasn't all there, so I set about maknig the hop-up adjustable, which made a world of improvement.  She could now hit a torso-sized target out to 100 feet with .23's & .25's with about 3~4 out of every 5 shots, and has a maximum range of 115 feet.  I didn't add adjustable sights as I did on my first USP, but I did decide to paint her olive drab and highlight the lettering-- something that I originally planned to do on the UHC NBB USP had I bought one.  I clear-coated the olive drab for two reasons: First, it would help the finish last longer.  Second,  if Heckler & Kock had made an olive drab lower, the polymer used probably would not have cured to a flat finish.  As a side benefit, the semi-gloss finish resists staining.  She chrono's 177/.20's, 166/.23's, and 158/.25's.

I never thought I'd buy this gun for a number of reasons; first and foremost, it's made by Kuan Ju Works-- not that all of their guns are bad, but quality control seems to be hit or miss and, in the case of their USP model, downright nasty.  The finish is cheap, build materials of lower quality, and the grip angle of this particular model is just a bit awkward to me.  Still, at from a local retailer, I figured that if I ended up hating the gun I could either sell it o put the internals into something else.  Well, it turns out that the only thing that the internals would fit in was my Marui .44 Automag, but I sold that thing a month prior because I hated the grip.  So, I set about fixing the three main problems I had with this gun as-is: the looks, the feel, and the accuracy (or lack thereof).  The gun looked awful because it wasn't painted, and the round triggerguard gave it that "I wish I was a Tanaka Luger" look.  The unpainted surface was a plus since it meant not having to strip anything, and the gun itself is comprised of less than 100 parts, so this wouldn't be too hard.  Prior to painting, though, I had to address the issue of the overall feel of the gun-- the trigger guard, in particular, had to go.  It was far too small for me to get my finger into fast enough, and my knuckle would hit the inside of it between shots.  On top of that, it wasn't intended for combat (two-handed) shooting, so there was no place to rest your non-shooting index finger.  I chopped the trigger guard off of an old KWC GBB SIG Sauer P226 and combined it with the existing one; the result is a much more comfortable grip that also makes the gun stand out a little more.  Now to the sights... the rear sight is fine as-is, but the front just looked too... I dunno, just "too much".  Too much of what, I don't know, but replacing it with a Benelli front blade seemed to have done the trick.  A thin strip of sheet steel was epoxied to the upper portion because I was planning on building a ventilated rib, but then that would have been useless and too much of a throwback to the .44 Automag.  I could have mounted a rail to that part, but that would have been just plain stupid.  The safety was going to be modified for easier manipulation, but I later decided that I could deal with it as-is.  With all the work done, I started on painting... the lower is a dark primer gray and the upper is matte black, but you really can't tell the difference.  I highlighted the safety and painted the bolt matte silver.  All in all, it looks much better now.  For accuracy, I found that the inner barrel had too much play, so I tightened up the sleeve around it.  Unless this was done, stray shots would hit the fake rifling molded on the muzzle and take out the guy next to you instead of what was in front of the gun.  To be safe, I drilled out the muzzle a little, allowing for an unobstructed flight path.

With 134a and .25's, she does an average of 307 fps; on Green Gas, that number can jump up to 396, but follow-up shots drop drastically (as much as 20 fps in diffrence!).  I'm currently working on the hammer spring to lower gas output; unlike most NBB's out there, this thing sucks gas like a '70 'Cuda-- so obviously something has to be done.  I have also found that lower velocities with heavier ammo will produce better accuracy-- must have to do with the hop-up design in this particular piece.  Finally, I might add that this gun is loud; I was going to try to suppress it, but one guy I was talking too summed it up by saying he wanted everyone on the field to know when he was shooting that thing.  Not a bad idea.  If you attach the conical muzzle from the Marui EBB Desert Eagle, you'll get a loud "crack" similar to that of a .177 BB gun on CO2.  Just something to try later on...